Відео

If you sacrificed some appearance you could improve accuracy. If you left the edges square and used socket head screws of needed length instead of thumb screws, you would be able to measure the offset with a caliper or even a depth micrometer.

The Loctite is permanent until you apply some heat… You could have save yourself some time and effort by heating the assembly.

Good to talk to you about this and other things yesterday Nick. A really impressive laser engraver.

Just found this and subbed, nicely done Nick

Lovely

A beautifully crafted knurl that would be hard to top, however a close second may be made without the tedium by cut knurling, as shown at ua-cam.com/video/jNCAGeJN01A/v-deo.html

Why did you measure the Ball and not the shaft?

Regarding your comment about having to watch the mechanical edgefinder, over the years I find that I have learned to tell when it kicks off by ear much quicker and more precisely than by eye. It might not work so well on a loud mill, but on my belt driven brushless minimill, it is very apparent.

Oi tudo bem, esse disco preto com 36 furos e o vermelho com 9 furos, onde posso comprar pode me informar o site de compra. Obrigado

one other note Jonesey, they used those articulated arms on the Space Shuttle, with custom locking knobs......they were for holding cameras and other items .... they probably have them all over the Space Station........an off the shelf item for space exploration

thank you Jonesey.....I bought one of those came clamps that you are using on the articulated arm [made by Manfrotto in Italy] all the way back in 1977.....they were marketed by a company in the USA called Tekno, the distributors of French made Balcar Strobe lighting ... Tekno called them 'Super Clamps' and they sure were....it was probably 10 more years before Manfrotto started marketing their product here... Tekno also sold their light stands.....amazing products....cheers, wonderful video... Paul....in Florida ...I think I paid $29 for the 'Super Clamp' back in 1977... that would be $150 today...I used for many years as an advertising photographer...

Bro, your not getting the recognition you deserve.

I'm trying to figure our where/how you placed the magnets in the box. I can hear it snap shut, but I don't see where they are.

I’m very much interested seeing how well this works on cylindrical objects. Great video!

THANK YOU!!! You answered all my questions I’ve had about how the lathe parts work together to create threads.

Are you Bri'ish or an Australian brother?

figured you needed this: ua-cam.com/video/WsDOqeQEvH0/v-deo.html

I wonder how about the concentrity of the electronic one. Can you use it while spinning at very low rpms?

I use both types constantly, however I do rotate the electronic also, seems as accurate as the mechanical ones.

I have been using edge finders for about 50 years now and about 10 years ago I purchased and have used extensively the electronic edge finder. The repeatability and accuracy of the electronic is unsurpassed. they do have their faults but I have purchased three different sizes of them and all work extremely well. Well worth the money. Cheers.

The electronic edge finder is designed to be spun. As you approached the workpiece you will see it blinking and hear it beeping intermittently. When the light/beep goes steady, you came too far. You should split the difference between “blinking started” and “light steady” and back off that distance (which is your TIR). If you do not rotate the edge finder, the TIR of the spindle+holder introduces the error. Give it a try :-)

Next question is why not make an adapter to hold taps?????

Nice straightforward and useful thank you. I've just been given an electronic finder and I love it! Mechanical one out less often these days.

I've used electronic edge finders, and have noticed that you should also spin up the digital edge finder at around 60rpm, (Not all are like this however a majority I have seen are) you shall notice when touching onto the part, that only one side will touch first, showing the light only on in certain places. -Edit, (Will still be super accurate without spinning but this is just for the extra bit)

Disatvatages of the electronic one: Sometimes I mill non conductive materials, then it does not work. The longer edge finder adds an error when the spindle is not exactly trammed. The 0.01mm under size of the mechanical one is a good compensation for spindle run out. very few spindles and adapters will have less. 12V batteries are difficult to get and quite expensive.

just too bulky

I haven’t seen one led model with 10mm shank.

Nice video and presentation. Test the led edge finder again only this time with spindle running and make a second video on that.

You left out the big DISadvantage of the electronic one; it does not rotate! So if your collet or spindle etc has 1 thou of runout then your electronic tool will have 0 to 1thou of error, randomly, because you dont know the rotational position. To compensate that you need to rotate it and test in multiple positions and find the "high spot". Or, use a tool that rotates... 😎

The spinning mechanical edge finger has greater accessibility than the electronic one as you're restricted with its ball diameter. Good mechanical ones are rated to 5 microns accuracy. The overshooting issue is a problem of manual machines only so if it's a big deal then you need an edge probe with built in either dial or digital gauge to catch the exact contact position.

You're missing the point on this completely. I prefer the ball type wobbler. A cylindrical edge finder won't repeat as well as that. I think you're condeming a mechanical arrangement for the wrong reason. Electronic edge finder not turning is a disadvantage, because you're assuming that the tip is being held true to the axis of rotation of the spindle. If you put a dial clock on the ball and turn the spindle, you'll be surprised at how far out that will be, especially since it sticks out so far. Repeatability without it rotating is irrelevent if it's not on the centre line. Finally, you can't use calipers to give an accurate reading of the cylinder diameter, you have to use a micrometer.

mechanical edge finder is more than good enough for most jobs.

Remember, the entire setting accuracy will depend on machine alignments and head squareness as this will be tested with any variation on the X axis with height differences ?

try it on non conductive material

It seems to me that a fella who knows both machining and electronics, a clever fella, could make a better version of this (and have the fuel tanks of his v8 Interceptor booby-trapped).

Now you know the downsides and errors raised in the comments below isn't this the cue to make a homemade electronic edge finder with a much shorter body and less stick out? Also to mention that an electronic edge finder rotated at slow rpm in the collet will give a more precise reading of where the true spindle centre axis is.

I love my electronic edge finder, and I got it for like 20$ on amazon. My only complaints are that it uses lr44 batteries and has a 3/4 inch shank, , and I would prefer it used AA‘s and had a half inch shank. I would like to be able to hold it in my drill chuck, for quick checking as needed, which only goes up to a half inch. My drill chuck sticks out quite a ways from the spindle, and whatever the length of the drill it is,. And the furthest I can stick the finder out of an r8 collet is 3 inches. So it means a lot of cranking of the z axis hand wheel to switch between edge finding and drilling. Not the end of the world though!

If you're measuring your results with a mitutoya then you probably need, and can justify the electronic edge finder 😂

I just bought one of the electronic ones from China, which was considerably cheaper, and still works just fine. Nice video btw.

My concern is if you spin the electronic one/rotate it 90 or 180 degrees, does your edge move? This would indicate that something is off with the setup or machine, however how do you know this? Would the electronic edge finder always be centred to the spindle axis?

Zed not zee - you're not a yank

What is the name of the solution you used to oxidize and give the final color?

Another great video. Did I see that the drawings are in both imperial and metric. Is it common to mix the two and does it cause any problems?

You could have bought a Kurt vice and flipped the jaws to the outside position and milled the top and two sides without ever having to make these independent moving jaws but nice work. And now you’ve got a new workholding fixture for your shop!

Edge brrr will throw off even an electronic edge finder

If you have a shaper you could do he horizontal groves with a rotary table

Actually I've never used edge finders in mills. I've always started with an oversized piece of stock. Squared it up and then milled it down to size. Then again, I've never done really complicated shapes.

I was taught you never use an edge finder or drill bits in endmill holders. You should use your edge finder and drills in collets to ensure keeping them on the centerline of the spindle. Solid endmill holders are off a very small amount.

Really? No one is going to mention working plastic parts? Also I've found "dead" spots in my mill that somehow don't make contact. I never could explain it but to scrapped the part. Cheap mechanical ones are not worth your time. Starrett is the way to go.

Edgefinders are not deliberately ground undersize, they are lapped to a very close tolerance. Use a micrometer to measure them, they can wear but only by a couple of tenths over years.. If you are concerned with the end marking the part, there are mechanical edgefinders with a ball end. Huffam have been around for ages and kick out much less than the wigglers. One thing that can cause errors is the edgefinder, part and vise jaws need to be regularly demagnetizsd. Could you set up a part using a lever indicator to accurately find the edge and then see how the others perform in comparison. Lock the knee, Y axis and keep the spindle locked in the same position.